So Much Wine (and Cheese), So Little Time
Eating and drinking our way through Bordeaux.
One of the best parts about staying in one place for an extended period is the opportunity to visit a favorite cafe or wine bar again and again. There’s comfort in returning to a beloved place, where if you are lucky, the owner will greet you warmly and perhaps even offer you a sample of his or her favorite wine. Below are some of the places that made our 10 day stay in Bordeaux extra delicious.
Wine Bars
Bar à Vin —When I first read the menu and saw the price for a good glass of Cremant de Bordeaux—3.50 euros for a glass, I thought it was a typo. Happily I was wrong. The wine bar offers 30 (amazingly priced) regional wines by the glass, along with cheese plates, chocolates and other nibbles. The elegant bar is right across from Bordeaux’s tourism office in the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux. There’s usually a line if you get there after 6, so arrive early so you don’t have to wait.
Vins Urbains — Right next to our apartment, Vins Urbains is another ridiculously charming and intimate wine bar with a top-notch selection of wines by the bottle or glass. We stopped by a few times during our stay for exceptional glasses of wine, dessert, and snacks. Note: They do require you to purchase at least one food item per group.
Le Vertige — Located at 18 rue du Parlement St Pierre, one of Bordeaux’s bustling yet quaint streets, Le Vertige lets you choose small, medium or large tasting portions from a clever wine-dispensing machine. The place gets very crowded, so get there early for a good seat.
Yarra Wine Bar — We loved Yarra—not only because they are the only wine bar in Bordeaux offering wines from around the world and great food, but also because the bar is run by long-time hospitality veterans Aaron and Albane, a convivial husband and wife duo who make you feel instantly at home. Aaron is from Australia and Albane was raised in Bordeaux, and they bring not only years of experience but also a contagious enthusiasm for wine and food that’s irresistible.
Patisseries
Micheline & Paulette Patisserie—I’ve tasted dozens of canelés in the U.S. and in Bordeaux, and the ones at Micheline & Paulette are my new favorite (the ones at Balthazar Bakery in New York are a close second). Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. Perfection.
Dunes Blanches - Chez Pascal — Canelés may be the hometown favorite, but a close second are Dune Blanche—crunchy on the outside choux pastries filled with light-as-air cream. I dare you to eat just one. Find them in Bordeaux at Dune Blance, 7 rue de la Vieille Tour.
Cafes & Coffee Shops
Books & Coffee —We returned to this cafe and bakery again and again to have breakfast, lunch, and to work. There are two rooms and a variety of seating including some comfy sofas and overstuffed chairs. It gets very crowded, especially on weekends, so go early or during the week. Dogs welcome.
L’Alchimiste — Tucked away on an adorable pedestrian street near the busy Place Gambetta, L’Alchimiste, a roastery, coffee shop and school, is the place for serious coffee connoisseurs. They specialize in coffee sourced directly from growers around the world and offer a selection of hard-to-find beans, high-end coffee machines and accessories.
Cheese Shops
Fromagerie Deruelle — This fromagerie was around the corner from our apartment, and we were amazed by the variety and quality of the cheeses (150 varieties!) as well as the affordable prices. We loaded up on Brillat Savarin, truffled sheep’s milk cheese (wonderful sprinkled on scrambled eggs, in salad and on sandwiches), and fresh eggs. They also sell farms eggs, jams, butter, oils, honey and dried meats. Helpful staff and samples.
Chez Delphine — A cheese-lovers paradise, Chez Delphine is located on the very busy rue des Remparts in the heart of Bordeaux’s shopping district. Unlike most cheese shops, Chez Delphine has a patio where you can enjoy tartiflette, cheese fondues, and tartines grillés cheese in the winter as well as cheese and charcuterie platters and wine in the warmer months.
Up next: Bordeaux must-dos!
This post is making me so happy for you both! What an adventure. Life is meant for living! 🧀🥂