Best of Bordeaux

Next to Paris, Bordeaux is my favorite French city (so far). We’ve visited twice for extended stays and have tried to go off the beaten path to find special little places that aren’t necessarily in the guidebooks. Here are some recommendations for where to eat, drink, and shop in the wine capital of the world, plus a few things you must do in the wine capital of the world.

Restaurants

Symbiose — The first time we went to Symbiose, we had dinner with Björk. Ok, not really, but the Icelandic pop star was sitting next to us with a cool rocker guy. “She looks so much like Björk,” Jason and I kept saying to each other. After a bit of sleuthing, we found out that she was performing that week in Bordeaux and was at the table across from us. Besides a celeb sighting, this little restaurant punches above its weight when it comes to food. Offerings include small plates like Asian-inspired duck a l’orange and roasted scallops with Jerusalem artichoke cream. I also love the atmosphere; it’s hidden behind the wine bar so that from the entrance, you don’t even know it’s there.

Chez Dupont — A classic spot in the Chartrons district for typical French fare like steak frites, duck, and oysters. The front room has the best ambiance, so request it when you book. You can also rent one of 10 guest rooms from this industrious restaurant group.

Cafe Breizh — The Bordeaux outpost of this creperie chain is on a pretty square in the Chartons neighborhood. It’s good for an uncomplicated lunch or dinner option.

Vivants — This acclaimed spot from Chef Tanguy Laviale was down the street from one of our Airbnbs. It’s more laid-back than his other Michelin-starred restaurant, Ressources, yet still offers an exceptional culinary experience. Guests can choose among three set menus—80, 100, or 150 euros—with seasonal, local ingredients elevated to an art form.

Wine Bars

La Comtesse—This blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine bar ticks all the boxes: It has a cozy vibe, lots of red velvet, dudes in the corner playing chess, old French knick-knacks and curios, dim lighting, friendly staff, and tasty wine.

L’Officine — We stumbled on this bar, a vin/restaurant after this pop-up, and boy, oh boy, we were glad we did. It’s in a neighborhood called Saint Seurin, a little off the beaten path. The night we went, an old-school jazz duo performed. The place was packed to the gills, and we felt right at home chatting with the locals. I can’t promise it will be as magical as it was that night, but it's still worth going.

Bar à Vin —I thought it was a typo when I first read the menu and saw the price for a good glass of Cremant de Bordeaux—6 euros a glass. But it was, indeed, the price. The wine bar offers 30 extremely affordable regional wines by the glass, along with cheese plates, chocolates, and other nibbles. The elegant bar is right across from Bordeaux’s tourism office in the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux. There’s usually a line if you get there after 5, so arrive early so you don’t have to wait.

Yarra Wine Bar—We loved Yarra, not only because it is the only wine bar in Bordeaux offering wines from around the world and great food but also because it is run by long-time hospitality veterans Aaron and Albane. They are a convivial husband-and-wife duo who make you feel instantly at home. Aaron is from Australia, and Albane was raised in Bordeaux. They bring years of experience and an irresistible contagious enthusiasm for wine and food.

Boulangeries & Patisseries

Au Pétrin Moissagais—Located in the lovely Chartrons neighborhood, this boulangerie was highly recommended by the granddaughter of a baker who trained there many years ago (she was also one of our Airbnb hosts). The croissants were excellent, although it may not be the friendliest spot in town.

Micheline & Paulette Patisserie—I’ve tasted dozens of canelés in the U.S. and Bordeaux, and the ones at Micheline & Paulette are my new favorite (the ones at Balthazar Bakery in New York are a close second). Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. Perfection.

Dunes Blanches - Chez Pascal — Canelés may be the hometown favorite, but a close second is Dune Blanches—crunchy on the outside choux pastries filled with light-as-air cream. I dare you to eat just one. Find them in Bordeaux at Dune Blance, 7 rue de la Vieille Tour.

Cafes & Coffee Shops

Books & Coffee —We returned to this cafe and bakery again and again to have breakfast, lunch, and to work. There are two rooms and a variety of seating including some comfy sofas and overstuffed chairs. It gets very crowded, especially on weekends, so go early or during the week. Dogs welcome.

L’Alchimiste — Tucked away on an adorable pedestrian street near the busy Place Gambetta, L’Alchimiste, a roastery, coffee shop, and school, is the place for serious coffee connoisseurs. They specialize in coffee sourced directly from growers around the world and offer a selection of hard-to-find beans, high-end coffee machines, and accessories.

Cheese Shops

Fromagerie Deruelle—This fromagerie was around the corner from our apartment, and we were amazed by the variety and quality of the cheeses (150 varieties!) and the affordable prices. We loaded up on Brillat Savarin, truffled sheep’s milk cheese (wonderful sprinkled on scrambled eggs, salads, and sandwiches), and fresh eggs. They also sell farm eggs, jams, butter, oils, honey, and dried meats. Helpful staff and samples.

Chez Delphine—A cheese-lovers paradise, Chez Delphine is located on the very busy rue des Remparts in the heart of Bordeaux’s shopping district. Unlike most cheese shops, Chez Delphine has a patio where you can enjoy tartiflette, cheese fondues, and tartines grillés cheese in the winter and cheese and charcuterie platters and wine in the warmer months.

Things to Do

Take a bus tour and boat cruise. I find it helpful to take walking, bus, and boat tours in new cities to help me get my bearings. In Bordeaux, you can hop on a bus tour that leaves from the tourism office. I’m also a fan of Les Caneles Cruise, an hour and fifteen-minute ride up and down the Garonne, where you can learn all about the city’s fascinating history, architecture, and culture while sipping wine and munching on canelés . This is a must, especially when the weather is nice.

Catch a flick. Pop into Cinéma Utopia, an arthouse movie theater, for an afternoon or evening enjoying movies in French and English. The theater also hosts film festivals throughout the year and has an on-site cafe where you can relax before or after showtime.

Explore the city's many museums, including the must-see Cité du Vin, an immersive wine museum, or Bassins des Lumières, the largest digital art center in the world located in a former submarine base.

Taste your way through a market. I love a good market, and Bordeaux is home to a few good ones where you can load up on local specialties like canelés, oysters from the Bay of Arcachon, and asparagus from the Blayais. There’s the historic Capucins market, nicknamed "the belly of Bordeaux,” the Quai des Chartrons Market that runs alongside the Garonne River on Sunday mornings, and Les Halles de Bacalan (right across from the Cité du Vin), where you can eat your way through dozens of food stalls.

Visit the Darwin ecosystem. The sprawling 20,000-square-meter former military barracks is now a multi-use village with its own medical center, urban farms, an indoor skate park, and a pioneering co-working space. It’s also home to the Magasin General, the largest organic bistro dining hall in Europe.

Marvel at the gorgeous architecture and more than 300 historic monuments. From Place de la Bourse to Porte Cailhau, Bordeaux is a mecca for history buffs.

Wander along Rue Sainte-Catherine, Europe's longest pedestrian shopping street.

Have a French Sunday. Pick up a rotisserie chicken and some veggies at the Quai des Chartrons Market or Le Poulailler D’Augustin, pop by a wine shop for a bottle or two, grab a cake or tarte, and voila—a perfect Sunday night dinner at home.